Among the dozens of heights and hundreds of names on the map is not anything related to Kodari. And it is this ridge is untitled trehtysyachnik (peak 2999.8 meters) - the highest point total of Transbaikalia (meaning beneath vast mountainous territory itself Transbaikalia, Baikal and the Baikal-constable area by area equal to two of the Caucasus). This gap is easily explained: Kodar - new to science ridge, where most of the peaks, rivers, mountain passes can still wear the epithets "unnamed", "undiscovered", "not passed". But not the novelty of white spots, not the absolute height attracted here lately eyes of scientists: the relief Kodar geomorphologically young, it has a distinct alpine alpine character, that in continental Siberia rare and interesting. In Kodar "wild peaks, battlements and towers, sharp ridges, restless, often broken line profile, and in the surrounding mountain ranges, such as lying 100 km south-east Udokane - flat loach, gentle ridges, kurumnye field, monotonous, mountainous terraces . Originality relief Kodar largely due to the peculiarities of its geological history. At one time, tens of millions of years ago, in mezokaynozoe, ancient surface was broken here by powerful faults. The resulting large arrays (in a scientific way - blocking segments) have moved relative to each other vertically 1000-2000 m. The most high altitude was a block Kodar, who began intensive saw rivers, and then subjected to upland-lowland glaciation. "Altitude" contributed to a large ridge of snow accumulation and development of glaciers, reaches a length of 60-120 km, with the power of ice 400 - 600 m. The glaciers transformed the valley into the deep troughs Kodar and left numerous traces in the form of mutton foreheads, fields curly rocks, smoothed crossbars. With the end of the Quaternary glaciation area took a form close to a modern and featuring a sharp dissection of the relief (up to 1500-2000 m) with widespread drevnelednikovyh forms. Further Modeling Highlands went under the domination of physical weathering, which are combined, saying "geographic" tongue, with the latest tectonic movements and activities of snow and ice, permafrost solifluction processes and performance of the rivers. Particularly intense right now is frost weathering ridges. It is expressed in the cracking and flaking of rock. The ridges are sometimes dressed in a solid cover of the stone to the scales area of ??one square meter. With a sharp jump in temperature, change of weather, hot air or a cry for another reason such cover begins to break down, and down the couloirs are rockfalls. Some of them last for up to fifteen minutes and are accompanied by a terrifying roar, sparks, shedding of stones at nearby slopes. By cracking the rocks and the destruction of the rocks are also continuing seismic tremors. At the top Sakukane traveler can watch fresh chaos, a wild pile of stones left over from the fall of cliffs 250-300 m, evident during strong earthquakes 1957-1958. Avalanche activity, not decaying in Kodari year round, carefully intertill slopes, demolishing debris covers the river, breaking the forest. Relefoobra-forming role of the glaciers are mainly manifested in the formation of moraine and snowfields - to create conditions for further "vgryzaniya" cars in the hills. River erosion in Kodari particularly active. This explains the "youth" turbulent flows, only recently started to develop a longitudinal profile. Their average slope in the first ten kilometers reaches 100-150 m at 1 km. It is curious that the freezing process and soliflyukatsiya (slow creep of soil saturated with water) is circulated in a much more modest form than not at Stanovoi Highlands. Mnogosnezhie not conducive to icing, stone river, stone medallions, and polygons. Absent in Kodari Goltsev terraces and kurumnye field. As in any mountainous area, the traveler who is in Kodar, first of all impressive exterior forms, colors and wildlife of the mountains and care above all on further ways on unfamiliar terrain. Let's try to parse the features of high mountains Kodar from this side. Once in the upper valley Kodar, just pay attention to rectilinear forms of well-preserved troughs: steep (50-70 °) slopes of the sides, flat bottom, the angles between Ń–nimi relaxed trail scree. From afar, these valleys seem to be tri-color - on top: brown rocks and white snow-streaked faces, at the bottom - green base, the middle - a white scalloped edge talus. Depending on the weather, lighting and composing the rock color changes, but overall remain low-key soft coloring and the nobility of gray tones. The width of the valleys between the shoulders of the trough - 1-1,5 km depth (from crest to downcutting of the river) can reach 1300-1500 m. However, at this size space for movement in the valley is not so much. After scree cones, merging into ribbons with width up to 300-400 meters and a height of 200 m (60-storey building!), Sometimes comes close to a river. A traverse "live" tridtsatigradusnuyu scree of acute-angled fragments difficult. In the upper part you can get a rockslide or avalanche in the lower, especially if the move comes with a caravan - stuck in the chaos of loose boulders. In some cases the amount of stones may reach 30-50 cu. am more suitable for the movement "dead" scree vary from light gray "sypuchek" their dark tones with colorful Ryaba yellow, brown, red lichen. In sunny weather here fun peresvistyvayutsya red pikas - senostavki, mischievous and curious animals, like chipmunks taiga, and between blocks, the fine material, it is noticeable a timid green. Where the talus does not reach the river valley floor is covered with curly rocks and the main moraine. The first represented by low (10 m) transverse ridges of bedrock, the second - an accumulation of more rolling hills of gravel, pebbles and boulders. To the uninitiated, these "curly" form does not impress, as are usually hidden by vegetation of dwarf creeping (up-altitude 1700-1800 m) and ernika (to an altitude of 1800-1900 m). Sometimes, especially in the valleys, oriented to the north, among the thickets of rhododendron and seeing a real alpine meadows with deep blue of the watershed, aquilegia, orange flame Siberian Roses - "lights", with geraniums, mountaineers, buttercups and other colorful members of herbs. For an abundance of delicate flowers is one of the valleys (valley second left, the longest, a tributary of the Glacier) and named - grace. Apart from rare alpine meadows, bright colors of green in the summer highlands Kodar occur, perhaps only around icings and pereletovyvayuschih avalanche snowfields. In general, the character of the whole alpine vegetation is strongly dependent on microrelief. Mound, submarine well, ledge, lake - each of these forms in their own hiding in snow, warm sun and creates the conditions in one case, for the life of lichens, and another - bog cotton grass. Main moraine is not only the most convenient for transportation, but also the most populated part of the valley. It wanders into a bear, can run into the box, on ernikam feed partridge. Where the moraine covered by talus or impassable elfin wood, the only way left the mountain river floodplain, rather its towpath. However, the features of the valleys Kodar that they not only cross, but also in the longitudinal profile of the step. And if the flat areas towpath are quite capable of a pack horse, about overcoming the brow of steep scarps - bolts - you can think of only having a whole arsenal of climbing equipment. As a rule, the closer to the source of the river, the more common cross bar, and so they are higher (up to 100-150 m). Below about 15 km ledges down to 30-50 meters above the upper bolts are common alpine lakes are maintained until mid-summer, the remains of the ice fields and attention-molochnozelenymi, azure and dark turquoise clear water. Transparency of the water stored in rivers. Only after the rains, when the mountain streams rapidly swell and become inaccessible, their turbidity is considerably increased. Being young, Kodar river had not yet propylene a very deep gorges. But even the ephemeral streams that feed avalanche snowfields, sometimes pierce yourself on the side of impassable gorges. Especially vigorous erosion is on the southern slopes, where the crossbars of sawn Falls rushes down a narrow jet of a few tens of meters high. On the northern slopes, on the contrary, more often weakly dissected terraces with wide front flowing water. Generally waterfalls - one of the most common "ornaments" Kodar highlands. After all, the side of the valley is classified as hanging and open to the main steps of the threshold wellhead height of 100-400 m. Sometimes a point can be counted on the slope up to four or five waterfalls. Still more majestic, but also very difficult to find in Kodari watershed landforms, as they are accompanied by steep rock walls, slopes, falling rock wrinkled margins, dissected ridges and significant elevation changes. The crests are often pulled strings kigilyahov - stone "monks", "old women", the "Bears", "devils". These figures multimeter weathering unstable and sometimes crumbling before our eyes. The alternation of uplift of the ridge creates a "saw" with teeth height of 100-300 meters at the intersections of the ridges or at the top of their considerable dismemberment acquire typical alpine species. But already in the first meters of rise immediately feel the difference - the rock is unstable. Although there are cracks and clues, but no arms, no hook barely holding, lumps of peel and threaten to fall. For Kodar climbing the truth "than the destroyed rocks so they are technically easier to" not applicable. Climbers are not so much dependent on its technology, but on the factors of destruction of rocks, ie, the insidious chance. On the availability of a pass in Kodari can accurately judge it, knowing only what processes and forces it is formed. Most easily passes on those sites interfluves, where previously held sway peremetnye glaciers. Reindeer, The Fog, Straight, Verhnesakukansky - all of which are not very high (1700-2100 m) and passes on one plan: the rise of the valley creeping and towpath, bypassing the steep talus crossbars, access to drevnelednikovy circus or the ledge of through the trough and through a curved jumper down into another valley. Those passes, where the forms of glacial activity were subsequently impact. Physical weathering and snowfields work more difficult, since they have a pretty steep scree (Pass Bear) or the ice-snow (pass four) sites. Saddle is formed "vgryzaniem" cars in the slope are insurmountable - that interfere with the "wall" of a very brittle rocks under the bridge. Kodar watershed characteristic abundance of water: the rock slabs are kept on ice ridges lining, hot days on the mountain passes, streams flow, the entire mass of formed gravel and silt saturated with melt water and lies on the permafrost. Nadmerzlotny layer creates a great inconvenience when traversing steep slopes, because it is easy to slip and stripped under the weight of the person. Just slide and crawl under trikoni the last of the plants lichens tsitrarii and Alec trajectory. Above takes only some of the moss and pink snow algae with an unexpected here smell a ripe watermelon. On snowfields and rocks you can find the ubiquitous bears. A resident of Highlands, "a permanent resident" mountain tarbagan - a large rodent of the family Sciuridae, having a valuable fur and tasty meat. Not as an example to their lowland brethren, it is not a carrier of the plague and can serve as a good help (hunting is allowed from September 10!) In the diet of travelers.
No comments:
Post a Comment